Friday, June 27, 2008

R&R korean style.

Those of you who know me well know that I am good at being productive throughout the day, and not so good at resting. That being said, I have run myself to the point of exhaustion lately and have been in desperate need of a chance to do nothing. This weekend I was determined to relax. Last night after work I took a taxi over to my favorite jimjilbang (찜질방) and spent the whole night laying in various saunas, getting a full-body massage, reading a travel book, and soaking in the bathhouse. Wonderful!

Jimjilbangs are a popular part of Korean culture and are a place that very few foreigners visit. Nearly every neighborhood in Seoul has one and they vary in the size and amenities offered. My favorite, located in Bangi Dong, is six stories high and has everthing from a bathhouse to workout facilities to massage tables to an abundance of sauna rooms. It's an excellent place to pamper yourself for a few hours.

As soon as you enter the jimjilbang and pay your 6,000 won ($6) entrance fee, you are given a key for storing your things in a locker, two small towels, and a pair of clothes reminiscent of a middle school gym uniform. Then, the men and women part ways to their locker rooms to shower and change. The women's locker room is very nice and has a concession table for buying drinks, snacks, shampoo, shower gel, mud masks, etc. There are also TVs hanging on the wall playing the evening news, massage tables, and rooms where you can get a full-body scrub. As soon as you find your assigned locker, you strip down and join the other hundred or so other naked women in the bathhouse. (Side note: After living in Korea for almost 10 months I am no longer afraid of nakedness. It's just a regular part of culture here to bathe in a public bath). All around the shower room there are dozens of friends and family members bathing each other's backs, carrying on with converstaion as if they were fully dressed, and little kids throwing cold water on one another. It's quite a scene. After showering, you are ready to soak in one of the pools. They have tubs that are scalding hot, temperate, frigid, full of salt-water, etc. Some baths have little fountains, some have powerful jets, some bubble. And in between your different baths, you can visit the steam room and sauna.

The fun doesn't stop there, though! Once you are clean, you put on the ill-fitting pink shirt and shorts provided by the jimjilbang and proceed to the common area to hang out with friends, sweat in one of the dozens of sauna rooms (salt saunas, mineral saunas, oxygenated rooms, ice rooms, and jade saunas...to name a few), eat dinner, watch a movie, check your email at the internet cafe, play games, or sleep. This is a very social place for many Koreans. Last night I opted to get an hour-long massage by a woman who found every muscle in my back, and then layed on the floor in the common area while sipping on a slushy rice drink and reading my new travel book. At about 10:30 pm I went into one of the sleeping rooms, crawled into one of the hundreds of little cave-like holes, and fell asleep. Jimjilbangs are typically open 24 hours so I took advantage of this and spent the night. I was too tired to go home and figured I was already so relaxed...why leave? I woke up at 9 am this morning feeling completely rested and ready to start my day. It was a wonderful night!

I think America has a thing or two to learn from the Koreans.

Monday, June 23, 2008

weekend in wando.

This past weekend I traveled to Wando (a series of island at the southern tip of Korea) with one of my closest friends, Eva. She grew up in this beautiful city and invited me to come home with her for a couple of days. It was so much fun meeting her family, eating home-cooked Korean food, driving around the island listening to loud music with the windows rolled down, and seeing the place where she has lived for the last 24 years. It was also wonderful to get away from the busy city for awhile and to see a much more laid-back part of the penninsula. I am so lucky to have found such great friends on this side of the world!

The weekend in photos:

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the 5 1/2 hour bus ride from seoul to wando. our ipods entertained us.

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playing on the beach.

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eva. her mom. george (her brother). eva's mom own a restaurant in wando so we ate GOOD all weekend long. here we are having kimchi, fried pork and dipping sauce, seaweed, and samgyeobsal.

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a view of the ocean from the road. we spent most of our time on saturday driving around since it was rainy and dark outside. regardless of the weather, it was still beautiful!

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the ocean at low tide. i wanted to tell this woman that she would never be able to empty her boat as long as it continued to rain.

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church on sunday morning. they sang many songs that sounded familiar, however, i couldn't sing along because everything was in korean.

Wando is such a beautiful place to visit. I can't wait to return when the weather is sunny and warm!

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

my youngest students.

Not only do I travel, explore Seoul, hang out with friends, and enjoy city life... I work, too. I realized the other day that I haven't said very much about my job, and wanted to write a quick blog post about my life during the week. I'll attempt to write a few entries telling about the different classes I teach each day, beginning now with my youngest kids in ESL 1.

I've been working at GKI School in Seoul for the last 8 months and really enjoy teaching english to Korean children. There are 17 other foreign teachers at the school from America and Canada and I have loved getting to know them. GKI offers everything from a full-day english speaking kindergarten program, to intermediate english classes for elementary school students, to intensive classes for those kids with parents who have Ivy League dreams. I work with the latter group in the ESL department, which means that most of my students have been learning english since they were old enough to walk and they all have a fairly good understanding of the language. All of the students are required to speak only english at school (they are punished when caught speaking korean), complete listening and reading comprehension homework each night, study for weekly dictation tests, and prepare for a monthly exam that test their knowledge of the material learned during the previous few weeks. The school is very well organized with daily lesson plans given to each teacher. Basically, I just walk into class, open to my pre-made lesson, and begin talking. There are still challengs at work...but at least coming up with material to teach isn't one of them.

The youngest students that I teach each day are those in my ESL 1 class. I've never been particularly excited about working with anyone under the age of 13, but I've really come to love these little ones. There are 9 students in the class and many of them attended english-only kindergarten programs last year. Because of this, they have a good understanding of sentence structure and have developed a fairly large vocabulary. It's always impressive to me that these 1st graders can read and write english so well. Last week I gave them a spelling test and one of the words was "gymnastics." I can't imagine that too many 7-year-olds in America could spell this word, which makes it all the more amazing that they are doing it in a second language. In addition to vocabulary we study math, science, history, and reading every week. Each student is also required to write a weekly summary over the book they are reading for homework, and then present it to the class. This has come to be one of their favorite actitives because they love standing at the front of the room and having everyone clap when they finish their presentation. They are a really goofy, smart, eager group of students and I always look foward to teaching them.

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a view of my classroom.

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hannah (named after hannah montana...yes, they watch that in korea, too). everytime i see this girl it makes me ready to adopt a little asian baby.

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esther and lucy.

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the whole crazy class.


each day i give the students a topic to write about during the first 15 minutes of class while i am checking their homework. last week they wrote about their favorite things to do during the summer. here is a short video clip of jenny presenting her paper. i love that little kid voice that they all still have.

Coming soon: ESL 2, ESL 4, ESL 5, ESL 6. Since they are all on the verge of being teenagers I'm sure they aren't going to be nearly as willing to have their picture taken!

Thursday, June 12, 2008

things i currently love.

Researching my upcoming trip to Bali, Indonesia. Running in Olympic Park on cool summer nights. Waking up and feeling rested. Working out with my new personal trainer. Coming home to a clean apartment. Reading Anderson Cooper's book "Dispatches From the Edge." Listening to travel podcasts about Southeast Asia and India. Working at the girl's orphanage in Seoul. Coffee dates with new friends. Eating wild strawberries. Editing photos. Listening to hour long voicemails on the computer from my best friend. Sitting at a coffee shop before work and writing in my journal. Waking up on a Saturday morning, hopping on the subway, and exploring the city.

Monday, June 9, 2008

church retreat in sokcho.

I have been attending Onnuri Church in Seoul for the last 7 months and am so thankful to have found a place to worship that's full of so many authentic people who are excited about missions and the world. This past weekend I went to Sokcho, located along the northeastern coast of Korea, for the annual OEM (Onnuri English Ministry) spring retreat. I had a great time getting to know new people and listening to the pastors share about their faith journey. The conference center that we stayed at was tucked away in the mountains and was so beautiful and relaxing. It was wonderful to get away from the chaos of Seoul and to be close to nature for a few days. There were about 150 people at the retreat from places all around the world. It's an incredible feeling to stand in a room with Canadians, Americans, South Africans, Australians, Koreans, Brits, etc. and to know that you are all worshipping the same God. I am so thankful for the new friendships that were formed and for the quiet moments I spent alone reflecting on my relationship with the Lord. My faith has done a complete 360-degree circle since moving to Seoul. It's so easy to get caught up in the movement of city life and to push your spiritual life to the side. I finally feel like I am back on the path towards becoming the person I was meant to be. It was a wonderful weekend. Rejoice!

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a view from the retreat center balcony.

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sokcho beach. we spent a few hours here each day relaxing in the sun.

"I'm not who I was when I took my first breath, and I'm clinging to the promise Your not through with me yet."
-Ginny Ownes.

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

life along the mekong.

I recently finished reading a book titled “The River’s Tale: A Year on the Mekong” and have been thinking a lot about this part of the world lately. The author writes about his journey along the Mekong River from the mountains of Tibet, through southern China, Laos, Cambodia, and finally Vietnam. It was impossible to read about his experience without thinking of my own.

I can so vividly remember the hours, and sometimes days, spent traveling on buses from one Southeast Asian city to another. I will never forget the feeling of arriving in Luang Prabang, Laos at night and being greeted by vendors selling freshly made chicken baguette sandwiches, monks walking the streets dressed in bright orange robes, and a guesthouse over-looking one of the city’s most beautiful Buddhist temples. I remember the days spent strolling the perfectly restored alleyways in Lijiang, China and watching Naxi men and women perform traditional dances in the town square. My mind wanders back to the hot afternoons in Saigon, Vietnam where my only plan was to shop in one of the many markets full of men and women eager to bargain over the price of imitation goods. I can almost feel the crisp morning air as I hopped on the back of a motorcycle taxi at 5 am to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Sometimes it’s hard to believe that it was actually me in all of those incredible moments. I must be the luckiest person on earth.

Reading this book about the Mekong River has been a reminder of my love for this part of the world. You won’t find fancy shopping malls or expensive cars in most of these places, but you will find a simple, unexplainable beauty in the land and on the faces of the people. Traveling through these war-torn countries awakened my understanding of the world like never before. I have seen landmine victims struggling to make ends meet, played with children whose growth was stunted due to malnutrition, watched wealthy western men take advantage of young Asian girls forced into prostitution, and seen killing fields where thousands of innocent people died at the hands of brutal leader. However, I have also witnessed singing and dancing, children's laughter, and a deep appreciation for life's simple pleasures. Many of these people have not forgotten their past, and still struggle to survive, but remain hopeful for a better future. Their outlook on life has radically shaped my own. I have never seen so much beauty in the world. I long to return to the simplicity of life along the Mekong.

These photos were taken during a 6-hour boat ride along the Mekong River from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. I traveled through this part of the world in February and March of 2007. It was an experience I hope to never forget.

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"Yes, there is a genuine emotional and intellectual rush that comes from travel and discovery...in understanding, in seeing societies change, adapt, create, struggle, survive. And there is a rush of travel itself, a 'wind in the hair' sensation that comes from hefting a backpack and heading into what is truly unknown."
-Edward Gargan.