Wednesday, October 1, 2008

happiness is...

Trips to beautiful beaches (Wando and Busan) with great friends.

Dongjip wars that never end.

Train rides to new cities.

American Apparel v-necks and Uniqlo hoodies.

Pot luck dinners and charades.

Spending time with a certain Korean-American.

City-wide scavenger hunts in the rain.

Watching indie films at the Busan International Film Festival.

Cheesy love motels with flowered wallpaper and Thomas Kincade window shades.

Inspring/encouraging emails from my best friend in the solar system.

Jogging along the Han River at night.

Hookah bars and mexican food in Gangnam.

Sitting at a coffee shop and drinking a latte while writing in my journal.

Reading a book about India and knowing that I'll be there soon.

Thinking about Christmas in America for the first time in 3 years.

Fall weather.

Enjoying every moment in Seoul before time runs out.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

happy korean thanksgiving!

A few weeks ago Korea celebrated one of its most important holidays, Chusok. In honor of the day, the students at school dressed in Hanboks and played traditional Korean games. It was so much fun to see all of my little kindergarten kids looking nice in their brightly colored clothes representative of their culture. Here are a few photos from the day:

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playing a korean stick tossing game. i didn't quite understand the concept.

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i sincerely hope that someday i have a little asian girl whose eyes completely close when she smiles.

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claire and her red dress.

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charlie. the ladies' man.

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a few of the girls.

Check out my Flickr site to see more photos from Chusok!

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

bali, indonesia: ubud.

I haven’t been updating my blog very frequently, and although the contents of this post are in the past, I’d still like to share some photos and journal entries from one of the most fascinating places I’ve ever traveled in Southeast Asia. During my weeklong holiday in Bali, Indonesia I spent some time near the center of the island in a little village called Ubud. The moment my rickety old bus arrived in this laid-back town situated in the middle of rice paddies that stretch on as far as the eye can see in every direction, I knew I was somewhere incredible. In Ubud monkeys roam freely…. they jump across rooftops, eat leftover prayer offerings in front of homes and stores, and eagerly wait for willing tourists to feed them in the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. Women dress in traditional sarongs with a single white strip of cloth tied across their foreheads. Men navigate the roads by moped while wearing Balinese wraps around their waist and bandana-like cloth piled on their heads. Cafés, massage parlors, temples, and souvenir shops line the streets. The entire place is rich with culture and beauty. I’ve always heard that in Ubud you need a new adjective to describe the word green, and I found that to be true. The rice paddies and trees and plants surrounding the village seemed to explode into every imaginable shade in the spectrum. I have never seen a place so beautiful and exotic. The few days I spent in Ubud were some of the most relaxing and peaceful I’ve ever experienced. I already look forward to returning one day.

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balinese boys posing for a photo.

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hard at work in the rice paddies.

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one of hundreds.

“Ubud. There are no words to adequately describe the beauty of this place. I woke up this morning in a quiet cottage surrounded by lush vegetation and rice paddies. I ate banana pancakes by the hotel pool, and now I am laying here just enjoying the morning. I don’t want to move. I don’t want to read. I don’t even want to meet other tourists. I just want to lay here next to flowers and fountains and soak up every ounce of my surroundings. I have landed in a village of fairy tales. This moment can’t be real. Last night after eating dinner at a street side café I watched a traditional Balinese Kecak dance performed at a nearby temple. It was fascinating to hear dozens of men make music with only their lips…a kind of clicking sound. Ornately dressed men and women danced around a central fire while acting out a story passed on through the generations. An incredible night.

It’s afternoon now and I can easily say that this has been one of the most unique and interesting days of my life. I decided to take a walk this morning through some of the nearby rice fields, and unable to follow a map, ended up in a village far away from Ubud. I have no idea where I was, but ended up making friends with a nice Balinese guy about my age who was working at his family’s art gallery. After talking for a while, I boldly asked if he’d be willing to take me to explore the rice paddies. And that’s what I’ve been doing for the last 2 hours. Right now I am sitting on the ledge of what must be one of the most spectacular places on the island- and maybe in the world. Terraced rice paddies fill the valley below, palm trees stretch into the sky, and men with baskets hanging on poles across their shoulders work in the fields. Green. Everything is green. I can’t get enough of this place. This morning I woke up without a plan for the day, and now I am here. Travel always brings the most unexpected moments. I love the people that you meet along the way and the kind natives who are eager to share their country. Today I can’t stop smiling. I am so thankful.” – July 31, 2008

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terraced rice paddies.

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monkey forest sanctuary.

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my hotel pool. paradise.

“CONTENTMENT. It’s the only word that does justice to my feelings now. How can anyone ever return to “normal” life after experiencing a place like Bali? I’ve only been in Ubud for 2 days, but they have been some of the most incredible I’ve ever experienced. I’ve spent mornings tanning by a pool set in a lush garden, an afternoon whizzing through rice fields and villages on the back of a moped, an evening getting a relaxing massage, and a night watching Balinese dances at historic temples. It doesn’t seem fair that one person should be allowed to experience so much joy. I feel on top of the world now. Last night I saw a traditional trance dance at the Ubud Palace in the center of town. The performance was incredible…a photographers dream. The men and women were all so ornately dressed in layers and layers of decorative silks and jewels. Their faces were covered in outrageous make-up. And their eyes… I’ve never seen eyes move so quickly or express so much emotion. I will never find the right worlds to tell my family and friends about this place. My dreams have come true here.” – August 1, 2008

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traditional balinese dance.

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trance dance at ubud palace.


kecak dance. (press the play button in the middle of the picture)

Sunday, September 7, 2008

free falling.

Yesterday afternoon a few friends and I took the subway to the outskirts of Seoul to a park for bungee jumping. Last October when we were in the area everyone was brave enough to jump, except for me. Yesterday I was determined not to chicken out. I still can’t believe I let myself free fall from a 140 ft. platform trusting that a rope would catch me! Although it was one of the scariest moments of my life, I’d definitely do it again.

Here’s a short video clip from my jump:

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

across the border and into north korea.

This weekend I visited a nation that remains shut off to most of the world. A place where rigid communist ideology pervades and the everyday movements of ordinary citizens are closely monitored. North Korea was unlike any place I have ever traveled, and I saw but only a glimpse of the country that is home to more than 30 million people.

I visited North Korea with a South Korean tour group, and from the moment we crossed the border along the demilitarized zone the differences between the divided peninsula were drastically apparent. In a matter of one hour I went from a country full of parks, shopping malls, well-dressed business people, and coffee shops to a city with few cars, stores, and restaurants. All day it felt like my eyes were playing tricks on me. Staring out of the bus window onto the desolate streets felt like watching a movie filmed 60 years prior. I kept blinking to make sure the scene on the other side of the glass was real. The few people walking or riding their bikes along the road were dressed in clothing reminiscent of 1940’s America…knee length pencil skirts, white blouses, dark-colored ill-fitting suits, flat brown loafers, and the occasional fancy hat. Every building looked the same…. made of concrete, square, no flowers or curtains in the window. Drab to say the least. North Korean military guards littered the streets as they monitored our every move. I have never been watched so closely. All day I couldn’t help but wonder what it must feel like to wake up every morning in a place where propaganda posters praising the suppressive communist dictator, Kim Jung Il, are plastered on billboards and windows. How does it feel to long for independence but to know that your chance for it might never arrive? This weekend I gained a new appreciation for my freedom.

I wish that I had more interesting photos from North Korea to post as I think the few below are a fairly inaccurate representation of the country. I was allowed to bring my camera on the trip, but the use of it was heavily monitored. All visitors were only allowed to photograph the “tourists traps” (as I prefer to call them) that we visited throughout the day. Therefore, my North Korea photo album consists mainly of beautifully restored temples and monuments, perfectly manicured parks and waterfall, and women wearing traditional Korean han-boks. While much of the North Korean countryside is beautiful and green and mountainous, I was not permitted to take photos of those places. Any chance of capturing a shot would have been shut down immediately by the North Koreans that accompanied us on the bus, or by the military guards that lined the streets. Regardless, images of the country will be ingrained in my memory forever.

A few photos from the north...

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north korean military officials driving in front of an old office building. i was allowed to photograph this side of the street, but the opposite side was off-limits as it was under construction and might give the impression that the country is poor and undeveloped. crazy.

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an old department store in the city of kaesong.

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the infamous kim jung il.

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holding a north korean postcard/piece of propoganda that I smuggled out of the country. shhh…don’t tell.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

bali, indonesia: kuta beach.

During my vacation to Southeast Asia I spent only 24 hours in Malaysia and then boarded a plane for Indonesia. As soon as I arrived at the airport in Bali I took a cab to my hotel on Poppies Lane II, threw down bags, and began to explore the area around Kuta Beach. It only took a few hours to appreciate the rich culture, beauty, and simplicity of the island. The next 3 days were spent lying in the sun, learning to surf, riding a moped along the coastline, shopping in alleyways lined with souvenirs, hanging out with Paul, reading books by the pool, enjoying western food at fancy restaurants, and exploring the city. I found that there are no dull moments in paradise.

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this is what $20 a night will get you in indonesia.

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the view from my hotel balcony and the place i ate banana pancakes every morning.

“I woke up fairly early this morning in a spacious hotel room with a balcony over-looking wing-tipped Balinese rooftops. I now feel rested and re-energized and ready to enjoy my surroundings. Everything is so beautiful here…the sky, the ocean, the people, the sounds. It’s too much to take in. I must be dreaming. This morning I sat on an oversized futon full of pillows at a street side café, drank rich balinese coffee, ate eggs and bacon, and watched the surfers tackle the morning waves. It’s easy to understand why so many people travel to Bali every year, and why many of them choose to never leave. The laid-back feel of this place is intoxicating. After breakfast I met up with Paul, a friend from Seoul who is also vacationing in Bali. We rented a moped and spent a couple of hours driving along the coastline to Seminyak and Legian. It felt amazing to whiz through neighborhoods and back streets lined with locally owned shops and restaurants and to see people in a more natural environment. This whole island seems to move so slowly. The culture shines through in everyday life. Outside of nearly every home and shop are prayer-offerings left for gods carefully crafted out of bamboo leaves and flowers. Temples are around nearly every corner. Tanned children play and run barefoot in the street. It doesn’t seem possible that a place like Bali can exist on the same earth as a fast-paced, consumer driven city like Manhattan or Tokyo. After our moped ride Paul and I ate dinner at a fancy, western-owned nightclub/outdoor restaurant and watched the sunset over the ocean. Following a meal of pasta and swordfish we enjoyed an hour-long foot massage that set us back $4. Now I am once again in my hotel room…clean, relaxed, and ready for bed. I love knowing that tomorrow when I wake up I will still be in paradise.” –July 28, 2008

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kuta beach.

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riding the waves.

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packing up the boards for the day.

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relaxing at sunset.

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one of hundreds of women trying to sell junk on the beach.

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bali is a surfer's paradise.

“It’s another simply perfect day on one of the world’s most beautiful islands. Nowhere to be and nothing to do. I spent a bit of time laying on the beach this morning and after feeling sufficiently tan for the day I wandered around Poppies Lane I in search of new dresses and postcards to send home. I am in Bali, Indonesia now. It’s still hard to believe. I am so far from home (both Texas and Korea) and I feel so perfectly content and happy. I just finished drinking a fruit smoothie made with pineapples, mangoes, and papayas and eating a chicken sandwich. I’m sitting on oversized cushions only feet away from the ocean. This place is pure bliss…I can’t say it enough. I don’t even know what to do with myself now. Take a nap? Read a book? Grab a cup of coffee? I love that these are the most difficult decisions that I face today. It’s only 4 pm now but already the sun is hanging lower in the sky. Life is moving more slowly as the day comes to an end. Just another day in paradise…”
–July 29, 2008

Next stop: Ubud, Indonesia

Sunday, August 17, 2008

kuala lumpur, malaysia.

This summer, during my weeklong holiday from work, I traveled back to the part of the world where I first experienced real culture, tradition, and diversity. A place that solidified my love of Asia. On July 26th I boarded a plane to Southeast Asia... although this time headed towards Malaysia and Indonesia. It was my first solo trip and one of my most incredible experiences to date.

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“The moment is here. I am on an airplane headed towards Kuala Lumpur. It’s always a surreal feeling when the moment you have been dreaming about for so long finally arrives. My first solo adventure has begun and right now I feel so independent and strong. I know if I can do this I am capable of anything. I am convinced that few things are more beautiful or mysterious than seeing the world from an airplane window. It’s a strange feeling to be so high above the earth and to know that life is happening down below. As I stare out of the airplane window now I see nothing but miles of deep blue ocean and fluffy white clouds. Everything is so beautiful from way up here. There are few things in the world that are more satisfying to me than travel. I love knowing that in just a few hours I will step out into Malaysia- a new language, new people, and a culture that I know very little about. I can’t wait to explore. The adventure begins.” – July 26, 2008

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china town.

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traditional muslim dress.

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the petronas towers at night.

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cigarette and a smile.

“I woke up early this morning in my hot, sticky hostel room. That place is worth only the $3 a night I’m paying and not a penny more. I’ve only been in Kuala Lumpur for about 12 hours, but already I love this city. When I arrived last night I took the train from the airport to my hostel and randomly met a famous Malaysian actor/talk show host, Christien New, who helped me find my way around. Travel always presents the most unusual experiences. I reached Chinatown at about 8 pm, threw my backpack on my bed, and immediately set out to explore. I spent a few hours roaming around the night market, eating spicy noodles at a street side café, and wandering around the city in search of the Petronas Towers. Beautiful. There is no other word to describe those massive pieces of architecture that light up the night sky. I don’t know what’s in store for today…. all I really want to do is soak up every ounce of this city during the few hours I have left. I am awed by the diversity that surrounds me now. Two women just walked past dressed in jet-black saris that cover their bodies from head to toe. I’ve always heard that in Muslim countries the eyes are the most revealing part of the body as they are solely responsible for expressing emotion. I never realized how true that was until now. A group of teenage girls are sitting at a coffee shop across the street with heads properly covered in scarves. A barefoot monk wrapped in a bright orange robe just tried to hang me a prayer card. I am in “exotic” (based on my limited perspective of the world)…it feels so wonderful.” – July 27, 2008

Next stop: Bali, Indonesia