three days in manila.

When we started traveling in January I never imagined that we would end up in the Philippines. But after enduring the food poisoning and filth of India, and then escaping through Southeast Asia, it seemed like the only logical place to spend the remainder of our vacation. It was definitely a good decision. I have been to beaches around the world but have never found islands as beautiful as those in the Philippines.

After spending 3 days in sunny Singapore we caught a flight to Manila and spent a few days touring Intramuros and the area along the bay, indulging in $7 massages, window shopping in some of the city’s most fashionable malls, and preparing for our next destination. Manila was an interesting place to explore but all of us were more than ready to relax on Boracay Island’s white sand beaches. So a few days later we boarded a 60-passenger airplane (one of the scariest rides of my life) and landed in paradise.

Photos from Manila:


intramuros. the old, walled section of the city.


view of manila bay.


the smallest plane i never hope to ride again. nicole actually screamed when the plane hit the ground upon landing.

Next stop: Boracay Island.

singapore!

It took a 45-hour train ride, 2 nights in Bangalore, and an overnight flight to Southeast Asia to escape India, but we have arrived in Singapore!

The sky is blue. The sun is shinning. Flowers and trees line the sidewalks. Arriving in Singapore was such a shock after having spent the last 3 weeks in India. There are no beggars on the streets, no dirty cows, no urine-stained sidewalks, no women dressed in sarees, and no pollution hovering over the city. Everything here is so clean and beautiful. I spent most of the afternoon today walking along Orchard Street past professional looking people and high-end retail stores such as Versace, Gucci, and Chanel. It's hard to believe that such drastically different countries even exist on the same planet. I am thankful to have traveled through parts of India and never want to forget the things I have seen, but I'm so happy to now be in Singapore. I love hearing the many languages spoken as I pass people on the subway. I love feeling the light breeze that cools the air. I love the sunshine. It's hard to really wrap my mind around my location in the world now. A few years ago I never imagined that I would have traveled so much of Asia or become so content on this side of the world. I am thankful for where life has taken me.

A few photos from Singapore:

sleepy sam's hostel near arab street where we stayed for 3 nights.


the mosque just meters away from our hostel.


chinatown!


the famous raffles hotel where we splurged for a $20 cocktail.


downtown singapore at sunset.

Next stop: The Philippines.

the escape.

After moving from one city to another and always hoping for something better in the next, we finally gave up on India. I thought I was prepared for the cows and poverty and massive amounts of people after having lived in China and traveled through much of Southeast Asia, but nothing compares. We are tired of fighting against India and are ready for a more relaxing vacation. Perhaps I will return one day to backpack the south, but now it's on to Singapore! I couldn't be more excited.

death and reincarnation in varanasi.

I don't think that anything could have adequately prepared me for Varanasi. Before arriving in the city I knew a little bit about the Hindu belief in the cleansing power of the Ganges River, but I never gave serious thought to the rituals performed there. During our second afternoon in the city we went for a long stroll along the river hoping to gain a greater understanding of the religion. It is believed that the Ganges River has the ability to wipe away sin and because of this we saw many men, women, and children bathing in the dark, filthy water. It is also believed that any Hindu that dies in Varanasi will escape the cycle of reincarnation. Therefore, many people come to the city to die. All along the river bank we saw men carrying the dead on bamboo stretchers into the sacred Ganges to wash them of their sins before being cremated on nearby fires. I have never seen so much death. It was an interesting and hard experience, to say the least. I will never forget the images of that day.

Journal entry from Varanasi:

“I am floating along the Ganges River now. We just passed a large cremation sight where hundreds of men are busily gathering wood to burn those who have recently died in Varanasi. All of the corpses are carefully wrapped in orange silk, placed on a bamboo stretcher, and carried to the river’s edge to be splashed with water, and therefore cleansed of all sin, before being cremated. Death is everywhere. In a matter of hours I have seen dozens of dead bodies waiting to be burned. Smoke fills the air as bodies leave this world and escape reincarnation, as the Hindus believe. A few minutes ago we stopped in front of a deceased man awaiting his cremation. We witnessed his young daughter turn the corner and see her father for the last time. First she screamed and then a steady wailing filled the air. I felt like I was invading on a private and sacred moment- I had to turn my head away. Here in Varanasi death is a part of everyday life. People bathe in the Ganges River to rid themselves of sin and hope to die here to escape the cycle of reincarnation. It seems like such a silly ritual to me, but we all have our beliefs. My heart is aching now for the girl who lost her father today. I can’t imagine the sense of fear and sadness that she must feel now. I don’t ever want to become so numb to the pain and suffering of others that I see their hurt and feel nothing. Death is everywhere in Varanasi.”


boat ride down the ganges river.


bathing in the holy water.


boats along the river.


one of the cremation sights at the ganges river.

Next stop: Bangalore.

i no longer like india.

The moment it all changed.

Journal entry following a 15-hour train ride in India:

"Last night I felt so gross that I actually blew my nose into a bed sheet before covering up with it to sleep. My head is congested and achy, my nose wont stop running, and my stomach is turning at the thought of eating any more curry. It’s official- I no longer like India. We took a 2nd class sleeper from Agra to Varanasi and arrived the following afternoon completely tired and dirty. I thought I could handle nearly anything after taking so many 4th class train rides in China, but nothing prepared me for India. The train station in Agra was dark and crowded. The platforms were covered in a thick layer of dirt and garbage. Men wearing white turbans pushed and shoved to be the first on the train when it arrived while guards carrying rifles patrolled the area. And it only got worse once on board. Because we are traveling with so much luggage it was a struggle to find a place for everything. People were moving up and down the train car as we shoved our 50 pound bags under the seats. I’m not sure I can ever endure another train ride in India after this terrible experience. I have tried so hard to remain positive during the last week but this country is slowly killing me. The pollution is making it nearly impossible to breathe and it feels like I now have dirt permanently embedded on the bottoms of my feet. This really isn’t what I had in mind when coming to India. I wish that I could write home and share wonderful stories about the country but right now I feel nothing…except the need to escape.”

afternoon at the taj mahal.

I almost had to catch my breath the moment I turned the corner and saw the Taj Mahal for the first time. As soon as we entered the grounds everything seemed calmer as no one hassled us to buy postcards or begged for rupees. Grant, Nicole, and I spent nearly 2 hours taking pictures in front of the Taj, sitting on a park bench under the afternoon sun, and exploring the surrounding area. Now I understand why so many people travel halfway around the world to see this beautiful monument. It was an incredible experience that I will remember forever.


approaching the taj mahal.


my favorite place in india.


me and grant. our favorite pose.

udaipur and pushkar.

The next stops during our tour of Rajasthan were in the cities of Udaipur and Pushkar. Here we saw even more camels and cows, strolled through crowded bazaars, had our hands painted with henna, photographed temples and people, and enjoyed lazy evenings eating at western cafés.

Journal entry from Udaipur:

“It is a peaceful morning in Udaipur. I was woken up by the sound of birds chirping near the window while the Islamic call to prayer echoed in the distance. I love the stillness of a new day. The streets are near empty and a light fog hangs over the city. Now I am sitting on our hotel balcony enjoying a cup of chai tea and a few slices of bread. From where I sit I can women washing their colorful saris in the lake as cows lazily stroll along the water’s edge. We arrived here yesterday evening and already this place is my favorite in Rajasthan. The large window in our hotel overlooks the serene lake and an old maharaja palace sits in the distance. It’s possible to navigate this city on foot so last night we walked and walked through narrow streets lined with souvenir shops and restaurants. We ate pizza and curry at a trendy café over-looking the illuminated city. The view from above Udaipur was what I had in mind before coming to India. I feel like I have landed in a place that must have been paradise a few centuries ago.”


an early morning in udaipur.


another view of the lake.


fruit vendor weighing her produce.


camel ride in pushkar.

Next stop: Agra.