across the border and into north korea.

This weekend I visited a nation that remains shut off to most of the world. A place where rigid communist ideology pervades and the everyday movements of ordinary citizens are closely monitored. North Korea was unlike any place I have ever traveled, and I saw but only a glimpse of the country that is home to more than 30 million people.

I visited North Korea with a South Korean tour group, and from the moment we crossed the border along the demilitarized zone the differences between the divided peninsula were drastically apparent. In a matter of one hour I went from a country full of parks, shopping malls, well-dressed business people, and coffee shops to a city with few cars, stores, and restaurants. All day it felt like my eyes were playing tricks on me. Staring out of the bus window onto the desolate streets felt like watching a movie filmed 60 years prior. I kept blinking to make sure the scene on the other side of the glass was real. The few people walking or riding their bikes along the road were dressed in clothing reminiscent of 1940’s America…knee length pencil skirts, white blouses, dark-colored ill-fitting suits, flat brown loafers, and the occasional fancy hat. Every building looked the same…. made of concrete, square, no flowers or curtains in the window. Drab to say the least. North Korean military guards littered the streets as they monitored our every move. I have never been watched so closely. All day I couldn’t help but wonder what it must feel like to wake up every morning in a place where propaganda posters praising the suppressive communist dictator, Kim Jung Il, are plastered on billboards and windows. How does it feel to long for independence but to know that your chance for it might never arrive? This weekend I gained a new appreciation for my freedom.

I wish that I had more interesting photos from North Korea to post as I think the few below are a fairly inaccurate representation of the country. I was allowed to bring my camera on the trip, but the use of it was heavily monitored. All visitors were only allowed to photograph the “tourists traps” (as I prefer to call them) that we visited throughout the day. Therefore, my North Korea photo album consists mainly of beautifully restored temples and monuments, perfectly manicured parks and waterfall, and women wearing traditional Korean han-boks. While much of the North Korean countryside is beautiful and green and mountainous, I was not permitted to take photos of those places. Any chance of capturing a shot would have been shut down immediately by the North Koreans that accompanied us on the bus, or by the military guards that lined the streets. Regardless, images of the country will be ingrained in my memory forever.

A few photos from the north...


north korean military officials driving in front of an old office building. i was allowed to photograph this side of the street, but the opposite side was off-limits as it was under construction and might give the impression that the country is poor and undeveloped. crazy.


an old department store in the city of kaesong.


the infamous kim jung il.


holding a north korean postcard/piece of propoganda that I smuggled out of the country. shhh…don’t tell.

bali, indonesia: kuta beach.

During my vacation to Southeast Asia I spent only 24 hours in Malaysia and then boarded a plane for Indonesia. As soon as I arrived at the airport in Bali I took a cab to my hotel on Poppies Lane II, threw down bags, and began to explore the area around Kuta Beach. It only took a few hours to appreciate the rich culture, beauty, and simplicity of the island. The next 3 days were spent lying in the sun, learning to surf, riding a moped along the coastline, shopping in alleyways lined with souvenirs, hanging out with Paul, reading books by the pool, enjoying western food at fancy restaurants, and exploring the city. I found that there are no dull moments in paradise.


this is what $20 a night will get you in indonesia.


the view from my hotel balcony and the place i ate banana pancakes every morning.

“I woke up fairly early this morning in a spacious hotel room with a balcony over-looking wing-tipped Balinese rooftops. I now feel rested and re-energized and ready to enjoy my surroundings. Everything is so beautiful here…the sky, the ocean, the people, the sounds. It’s too much to take in. I must be dreaming. This morning I sat on an oversized futon full of pillows at a street side café, drank rich balinese coffee, ate eggs and bacon, and watched the surfers tackle the morning waves. It’s easy to understand why so many people travel to Bali every year, and why many of them choose to never leave. The laid-back feel of this place is intoxicating. After breakfast I met up with Paul, a friend from Seoul who is also vacationing in Bali. We rented a moped and spent a couple of hours driving along the coastline to Seminyak and Legian. It felt amazing to whiz through neighborhoods and back streets lined with locally owned shops and restaurants and to see people in a more natural environment. This whole island seems to move so slowly. The culture shines through in everyday life. Outside of nearly every home and shop are prayer-offerings left for gods carefully crafted out of bamboo leaves and flowers. Temples are around nearly every corner. Tanned children play and run barefoot in the street. It doesn’t seem possible that a place like Bali can exist on the same earth as a fast-paced, consumer driven city like Manhattan or Tokyo. After our moped ride Paul and I ate dinner at a fancy, western-owned nightclub/outdoor restaurant and watched the sunset over the ocean. Following a meal of pasta and swordfish we enjoyed an hour-long foot massage that set us back $4. Now I am once again in my hotel room…clean, relaxed, and ready for bed. I love knowing that tomorrow when I wake up I will still be in paradise.” –July 28, 2008


kuta beach.


riding the waves.


packing up the boards for the day.


relaxing at sunset.


one of hundreds of women trying to sell junk on the beach.


bali is a surfer's paradise.

“It’s another simply perfect day on one of the world’s most beautiful islands. Nowhere to be and nothing to do. I spent a bit of time laying on the beach this morning and after feeling sufficiently tan for the day I wandered around Poppies Lane I in search of new dresses and postcards to send home. I am in Bali, Indonesia now. It’s still hard to believe. I am so far from home (both Texas and Korea) and I feel so perfectly content and happy. I just finished drinking a fruit smoothie made with pineapples, mangoes, and papayas and eating a chicken sandwich. I’m sitting on oversized cushions only feet away from the ocean. This place is pure bliss…I can’t say it enough. I don’t even know what to do with myself now. Take a nap? Read a book? Grab a cup of coffee? I love that these are the most difficult decisions that I face today. It’s only 4 pm now but already the sun is hanging lower in the sky. Life is moving more slowly as the day comes to an end. Just another day in paradise…”
–July 29, 2008

Next stop: Ubud, Indonesia

kuala lumpur, malaysia.

This summer, during my weeklong holiday from work, I traveled back to the part of the world where I first experienced real culture, tradition, and diversity. A place that solidified my love of Asia. On July 26th I boarded a plane to Southeast Asia... although this time headed towards Malaysia and Indonesia. It was my first solo trip and one of my most incredible experiences to date.



“The moment is here. I am on an airplane headed towards Kuala Lumpur. It’s always a surreal feeling when the moment you have been dreaming about for so long finally arrives. My first solo adventure has begun and right now I feel so independent and strong. I know if I can do this I am capable of anything. I am convinced that few things are more beautiful or mysterious than seeing the world from an airplane window. It’s a strange feeling to be so high above the earth and to know that life is happening down below. As I stare out of the airplane window now I see nothing but miles of deep blue ocean and fluffy white clouds. Everything is so beautiful from way up here. There are few things in the world that are more satisfying to me than travel. I love knowing that in just a few hours I will step out into Malaysia- a new language, new people, and a culture that I know very little about. I can’t wait to explore. The adventure begins.” – July 26, 2008


china town.


traditional muslim dress.


the petronas towers at night.


cigarette and a smile.

“I woke up early this morning in my hot, sticky hostel room. That place is worth only the $3 a night I’m paying and not a penny more. I’ve only been in Kuala Lumpur for about 12 hours, but already I love this city. When I arrived last night I took the train from the airport to my hostel and randomly met a famous Malaysian actor/talk show host, Christien New, who helped me find my way around. Travel always presents the most unusual experiences. I reached Chinatown at about 8 pm, threw my backpack on my bed, and immediately set out to explore. I spent a few hours roaming around the night market, eating spicy noodles at a street side café, and wandering around the city in search of the Petronas Towers. Beautiful. There is no other word to describe those massive pieces of architecture that light up the night sky. I don’t know what’s in store for today…. all I really want to do is soak up every ounce of this city during the few hours I have left. I am awed by the diversity that surrounds me now. Two women just walked past dressed in jet-black saris that cover their bodies from head to toe. I’ve always heard that in Muslim countries the eyes are the most revealing part of the body as they are solely responsible for expressing emotion. I never realized how true that was until now. A group of teenage girls are sitting at a coffee shop across the street with heads properly covered in scarves. A barefoot monk wrapped in a bright orange robe just tried to hang me a prayer card. I am in “exotic” (based on my limited perspective of the world)…it feels so wonderful.” – July 27, 2008

Next stop: Bali, Indonesia