this american life.

I'm writing this blog post at Starbucks. In America. Iced latte in hand. Blackberry beside me. Typing on my MacBook computer. A view of the lake in the distance. I just finished exercising in an air-conditioned gym that is less than 3 miles from my house. I drove to get there. Last night I served $20 steaks to people who are among the wealthiest in the world. Then I went home to sleep in a bed, under a fan, complete with pillows and sheets. Soon I will begin working on my second degree at one of the most expensive universities in the nation. I do not take these blessings and privileges lightly. But today I wonder, why me?

I am immensely grateful to have been born in this country and at this particular time in history. I have been given a life of comfort greater than most can dream. I don't plan to renounce my citizenship or even clean out my closet full of clothes and shoes, but a sense of guilt does wash over me now because I know I have not done enough to make the world a better place. Three years ago I traveled through some of the most poverty stricken nations on earth and now I live as if I've forgotten all that I've seen. I shop too much, spend money on expensive and unnecessary drinks, and do not set myself apart as someone whose purpose is to serve the needs of those less fortunate. It's so hard to remain passionate about the world when surrounded by affluence and apathy. But I blame no one but myself. Listening to Tracy Chapman's song, "Mountains O' Things," reminds me of the calling I've received to care for the poor and provide education to the millions of children living without. I will use my blessings to change the world.

"Oh they tell me, there's still time to save my soul. They tell me, renounce all of those material things you gain by exploiting other human beings." - Tracy Chapman

paradise found.

There aren’t enough adjectives to adequately describe the beauty of Boracay Island. This laid-back stretch of beach felt like a piece of heaven, especially in comparison to the rest of our travels. We came with the intention of staying only 7 days and then traveling to other islands throughout the Philippines, but soon found it impossible to leave. So for the next 2 weeks we spent nearly every afternoon laying on white sand beaches, drinking mango smoothies in the sun, exploring the island on the back of a moped, sailing and snorkeling, and meeting other travelers from around the world. My time in the Philippines was more fun than I ever anticipated and I am so thankful to have seen this part of the world.


sunset. my favorite time of the day.


grant, nicole and i enjoying an italian dinner on the beach.


boracay's white sand beach.

Journal entry from Boracay:
“I HAVE LANDED IN PARADISE.” Boracay Island must be one of the most beautiful places on earth. After traveling through India for a few weeks it became hard to imagine that a place so laid-back and beautiful actually does exist. This morning I woke up in our quiet little hotel room surrounded by flowers and trees and went for a long walk along the beach. I had every intention of listening to music while soaking up the morning sun, but the sound of the ocean crashing along the shore was too beautiful to drown out. I love it here. This island really is one of the most serene and picturesque places I have ever traveled. Right now I am sitting at a beach side café drinking an iced latte and watching tourist pass by. From where I sit I can see palm trees stretching into the bright blue sky and clear turquoise water in the near distance. My only plan for the afternoon is to tan by the beach and drink a smoothie, and tonight I hope to go out and meet some other travelers. The living is easy. Life is good. I wish my family and friends could see this paradise with their own eyes because photos will never do it justice.


main street.


one of many amazing sand castles built along the water's edge.


this is what $22 a night will get you in the philippines.


another photo of the beautiful beach.


the view from my favorite massage parlor. $6 an hour for a full-body massage.


nicole and grant parasailing! i was too scared to go, so i became the official picture taker.

Next stop: Beijing, China...my new home!

three days in manila.

When we started traveling in January I never imagined that we would end up in the Philippines. But after enduring the food poisoning and filth of India, and then escaping through Southeast Asia, it seemed like the only logical place to spend the remainder of our vacation. It was definitely a good decision. I have been to beaches around the world but have never found islands as beautiful as those in the Philippines.

After spending 3 days in sunny Singapore we caught a flight to Manila and spent a few days touring Intramuros and the area along the bay, indulging in $7 massages, window shopping in some of the city’s most fashionable malls, and preparing for our next destination. Manila was an interesting place to explore but all of us were more than ready to relax on Boracay Island’s white sand beaches. So a few days later we boarded a 60-passenger airplane (one of the scariest rides of my life) and landed in paradise.

Photos from Manila:


intramuros. the old, walled section of the city.


view of manila bay.


the smallest plane i never hope to ride again. nicole actually screamed when the plane hit the ground upon landing.

Next stop: Boracay Island.

singapore!

It took a 45-hour train ride, 2 nights in Bangalore, and an overnight flight to Southeast Asia to escape India, but we have arrived in Singapore!

The sky is blue. The sun is shinning. Flowers and trees line the sidewalks. Arriving in Singapore was such a shock after having spent the last 3 weeks in India. There are no beggars on the streets, no dirty cows, no urine-stained sidewalks, no women dressed in sarees, and no pollution hovering over the city. Everything here is so clean and beautiful. I spent most of the afternoon today walking along Orchard Street past professional looking people and high-end retail stores such as Versace, Gucci, and Chanel. It's hard to believe that such drastically different countries even exist on the same planet. I am thankful to have traveled through parts of India and never want to forget the things I have seen, but I'm so happy to now be in Singapore. I love hearing the many languages spoken as I pass people on the subway. I love feeling the light breeze that cools the air. I love the sunshine. It's hard to really wrap my mind around my location in the world now. A few years ago I never imagined that I would have traveled so much of Asia or become so content on this side of the world. I am thankful for where life has taken me.

A few photos from Singapore:

sleepy sam's hostel near arab street where we stayed for 3 nights.


the mosque just meters away from our hostel.


chinatown!


the famous raffles hotel where we splurged for a $20 cocktail.


downtown singapore at sunset.

Next stop: The Philippines.

the escape.

After moving from one city to another and always hoping for something better in the next, we finally gave up on India. I thought I was prepared for the cows and poverty and massive amounts of people after having lived in China and traveled through much of Southeast Asia, but nothing compares. We are tired of fighting against India and are ready for a more relaxing vacation. Perhaps I will return one day to backpack the south, but now it's on to Singapore! I couldn't be more excited.

bali, indonesia: ubud.

I haven’t been updating my blog very frequently, and although the contents of this post are in the past, I’d still like to share some photos and journal entries from one of the most fascinating places I’ve ever traveled in Southeast Asia. During my weeklong holiday in Bali, Indonesia I spent some time near the center of the island in a little village called Ubud. The moment my rickety old bus arrived in this laid-back town situated in the middle of rice paddies that stretch on as far as the eye can see in every direction, I knew I was somewhere incredible. In Ubud monkeys roam freely…. they jump across rooftops, eat leftover prayer offerings in front of homes and stores, and eagerly wait for willing tourists to feed them in the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. Women dress in traditional sarongs with a single white strip of cloth tied across their foreheads. Men navigate the roads by moped while wearing Balinese wraps around their waist and bandana-like cloth piled on their heads. Cafés, massage parlors, temples, and souvenir shops line the streets. The entire place is rich with culture and beauty. I’ve always heard that in Ubud you need a new adjective to describe the word green, and I found that to be true. The rice paddies and trees and plants surrounding the village seemed to explode into every imaginable shade in the spectrum. I have never seen a place so beautiful and exotic. The few days I spent in Ubud were some of the most relaxing and peaceful I’ve ever experienced. I already look forward to returning one day.


balinese boys posing for a photo.


hard at work in the rice paddies.


one of hundreds.

“Ubud. There are no words to adequately describe the beauty of this place. I woke up this morning in a quiet cottage surrounded by lush vegetation and rice paddies. I ate banana pancakes by the hotel pool, and now I am laying here just enjoying the morning. I don’t want to move. I don’t want to read. I don’t even want to meet other tourists. I just want to lay here next to flowers and fountains and soak up every ounce of my surroundings. I have landed in a village of fairy tales. This moment can’t be real. Last night after eating dinner at a street side café I watched a traditional Balinese Kecak dance performed at a nearby temple. It was fascinating to hear dozens of men make music with only their lips…a kind of clicking sound. Ornately dressed men and women danced around a central fire while acting out a story passed on through the generations. An incredible night.

It’s afternoon now and I can easily say that this has been one of the most unique and interesting days of my life. I decided to take a walk this morning through some of the nearby rice fields, and unable to follow a map, ended up in a village far away from Ubud. I have no idea where I was, but ended up making friends with a nice Balinese guy about my age who was working at his family’s art gallery. After talking for a while, I boldly asked if he’d be willing to take me to explore the rice paddies. And that’s what I’ve been doing for the last 2 hours. Right now I am sitting on the ledge of what must be one of the most spectacular places on the island- and maybe in the world. Terraced rice paddies fill the valley below, palm trees stretch into the sky, and men with baskets hanging on poles across their shoulders work in the fields. Green. Everything is green. I can’t get enough of this place. This morning I woke up without a plan for the day, and now I am here. Travel always brings the most unexpected moments. I love the people that you meet along the way and the kind natives who are eager to share their country. Today I can’t stop smiling. I am so thankful.” – July 31, 2008


terraced rice paddies.


monkey forest sanctuary.


my hotel pool. paradise.

“CONTENTMENT. It’s the only word that does justice to my feelings now. How can anyone ever return to “normal” life after experiencing a place like Bali? I’ve only been in Ubud for 2 days, but they have been some of the most incredible I’ve ever experienced. I’ve spent mornings tanning by a pool set in a lush garden, an afternoon whizzing through rice fields and villages on the back of a moped, an evening getting a relaxing massage, and a night watching Balinese dances at historic temples. It doesn’t seem fair that one person should be allowed to experience so much joy. I feel on top of the world now. Last night I saw a traditional trance dance at the Ubud Palace in the center of town. The performance was incredible…a photographers dream. The men and women were all so ornately dressed in layers and layers of decorative silks and jewels. Their faces were covered in outrageous make-up. And their eyes… I’ve never seen eyes move so quickly or express so much emotion. I will never find the right worlds to tell my family and friends about this place. My dreams have come true here.” – August 1, 2008


traditional balinese dance.


trance dance at ubud palace.


kecak dance. (press the play button in the middle of the picture)

bali, indonesia: kuta beach.

During my vacation to Southeast Asia I spent only 24 hours in Malaysia and then boarded a plane for Indonesia. As soon as I arrived at the airport in Bali I took a cab to my hotel on Poppies Lane II, threw down bags, and began to explore the area around Kuta Beach. It only took a few hours to appreciate the rich culture, beauty, and simplicity of the island. The next 3 days were spent lying in the sun, learning to surf, riding a moped along the coastline, shopping in alleyways lined with souvenirs, hanging out with Paul, reading books by the pool, enjoying western food at fancy restaurants, and exploring the city. I found that there are no dull moments in paradise.


this is what $20 a night will get you in indonesia.


the view from my hotel balcony and the place i ate banana pancakes every morning.

“I woke up fairly early this morning in a spacious hotel room with a balcony over-looking wing-tipped Balinese rooftops. I now feel rested and re-energized and ready to enjoy my surroundings. Everything is so beautiful here…the sky, the ocean, the people, the sounds. It’s too much to take in. I must be dreaming. This morning I sat on an oversized futon full of pillows at a street side café, drank rich balinese coffee, ate eggs and bacon, and watched the surfers tackle the morning waves. It’s easy to understand why so many people travel to Bali every year, and why many of them choose to never leave. The laid-back feel of this place is intoxicating. After breakfast I met up with Paul, a friend from Seoul who is also vacationing in Bali. We rented a moped and spent a couple of hours driving along the coastline to Seminyak and Legian. It felt amazing to whiz through neighborhoods and back streets lined with locally owned shops and restaurants and to see people in a more natural environment. This whole island seems to move so slowly. The culture shines through in everyday life. Outside of nearly every home and shop are prayer-offerings left for gods carefully crafted out of bamboo leaves and flowers. Temples are around nearly every corner. Tanned children play and run barefoot in the street. It doesn’t seem possible that a place like Bali can exist on the same earth as a fast-paced, consumer driven city like Manhattan or Tokyo. After our moped ride Paul and I ate dinner at a fancy, western-owned nightclub/outdoor restaurant and watched the sunset over the ocean. Following a meal of pasta and swordfish we enjoyed an hour-long foot massage that set us back $4. Now I am once again in my hotel room…clean, relaxed, and ready for bed. I love knowing that tomorrow when I wake up I will still be in paradise.” –July 28, 2008


kuta beach.


riding the waves.


packing up the boards for the day.


relaxing at sunset.


one of hundreds of women trying to sell junk on the beach.


bali is a surfer's paradise.

“It’s another simply perfect day on one of the world’s most beautiful islands. Nowhere to be and nothing to do. I spent a bit of time laying on the beach this morning and after feeling sufficiently tan for the day I wandered around Poppies Lane I in search of new dresses and postcards to send home. I am in Bali, Indonesia now. It’s still hard to believe. I am so far from home (both Texas and Korea) and I feel so perfectly content and happy. I just finished drinking a fruit smoothie made with pineapples, mangoes, and papayas and eating a chicken sandwich. I’m sitting on oversized cushions only feet away from the ocean. This place is pure bliss…I can’t say it enough. I don’t even know what to do with myself now. Take a nap? Read a book? Grab a cup of coffee? I love that these are the most difficult decisions that I face today. It’s only 4 pm now but already the sun is hanging lower in the sky. Life is moving more slowly as the day comes to an end. Just another day in paradise…”
–July 29, 2008

Next stop: Ubud, Indonesia

kuala lumpur, malaysia.

This summer, during my weeklong holiday from work, I traveled back to the part of the world where I first experienced real culture, tradition, and diversity. A place that solidified my love of Asia. On July 26th I boarded a plane to Southeast Asia... although this time headed towards Malaysia and Indonesia. It was my first solo trip and one of my most incredible experiences to date.



“The moment is here. I am on an airplane headed towards Kuala Lumpur. It’s always a surreal feeling when the moment you have been dreaming about for so long finally arrives. My first solo adventure has begun and right now I feel so independent and strong. I know if I can do this I am capable of anything. I am convinced that few things are more beautiful or mysterious than seeing the world from an airplane window. It’s a strange feeling to be so high above the earth and to know that life is happening down below. As I stare out of the airplane window now I see nothing but miles of deep blue ocean and fluffy white clouds. Everything is so beautiful from way up here. There are few things in the world that are more satisfying to me than travel. I love knowing that in just a few hours I will step out into Malaysia- a new language, new people, and a culture that I know very little about. I can’t wait to explore. The adventure begins.” – July 26, 2008


china town.


traditional muslim dress.


the petronas towers at night.


cigarette and a smile.

“I woke up early this morning in my hot, sticky hostel room. That place is worth only the $3 a night I’m paying and not a penny more. I’ve only been in Kuala Lumpur for about 12 hours, but already I love this city. When I arrived last night I took the train from the airport to my hostel and randomly met a famous Malaysian actor/talk show host, Christien New, who helped me find my way around. Travel always presents the most unusual experiences. I reached Chinatown at about 8 pm, threw my backpack on my bed, and immediately set out to explore. I spent a few hours roaming around the night market, eating spicy noodles at a street side café, and wandering around the city in search of the Petronas Towers. Beautiful. There is no other word to describe those massive pieces of architecture that light up the night sky. I don’t know what’s in store for today…. all I really want to do is soak up every ounce of this city during the few hours I have left. I am awed by the diversity that surrounds me now. Two women just walked past dressed in jet-black saris that cover their bodies from head to toe. I’ve always heard that in Muslim countries the eyes are the most revealing part of the body as they are solely responsible for expressing emotion. I never realized how true that was until now. A group of teenage girls are sitting at a coffee shop across the street with heads properly covered in scarves. A barefoot monk wrapped in a bright orange robe just tried to hang me a prayer card. I am in “exotic” (based on my limited perspective of the world)…it feels so wonderful.” – July 27, 2008

Next stop: Bali, Indonesia

thoughts from a balcony in bali.

Journal entry from July 29,2008- 9 am

A beautiful start to a new day. I'm sitting out on the balcony of my hotel room now. I just finished eating a banana pancake and fresh papaya and mangoes.I still have half a pot of thick, dark coffee beside me and I intend to sit here until it's finished. A young girl just placed a prayer offering near the statue in the garden area down below- I wonder what these offerings symbolize. The sky is full of white, fluffy clouds and the blue sky hasn't yet broken through. I love the view from here. As far as I can see in every direction there are orange and red and brown tiled Balinese rooftops. The top of each is decorated with ornate designs that sit upright like a crown on a king's head. There are trees everywhere- some with fruit, some with with blooming tropical flowers, some that stretch their palm leaves high into the air. A child just walked through the courtyard in the house next door. The family's clothes are hanging out to dry and they move back and forth in the morning breeze. I wonder what it's like to grow up in Bali surrounded by tourists and in a place that feels like summer everyday. I've only been here for 2 days, but already I understand why so many expats choose to call this place home. It's as close to perfection as I've ever seen. I am so thankful to be here...away from the fast-paced life of Seoul. I work in Korea, but I have come to Bali to live. To soak up life. To reflect. Sometimes I still don't understand why so many people choose to go through life without experiencing places like Indonesia, southern Thailand, Laos, etc. for themselves. I am bursting with happiness now. I am filled with contentment. There is nowhere in the world I'd rather be than on this Balinese balcony.

bali bound.

Tomorrow morning at 9 am I'm leaving the Korean peninsula and boarding a plane to Southeast Asia! I'm so excited about spending the next few days laying on the beaches of Bali, Indonesia, soaking up the sunshine, getting daily massages, meeting new people, and trying to capture Balinese culture in photographs. It's my first solo-vacation and I'm a bit nervous, but mostly excited, about heading out into a new place on my own. Check back in a few weeks for photographs and stories from my travels!

Random photos of where I'll be for the next 8 days. Be jealous...

life along the mekong.

I recently finished reading a book titled “The River’s Tale: A Year on the Mekong” and have been thinking a lot about this part of the world lately. The author writes about his journey along the Mekong River from the mountains of Tibet, through southern China, Laos, Cambodia, and finally Vietnam. It was impossible to read about his experience without thinking of my own.

I can so vividly remember the hours, and sometimes days, spent traveling on buses from one Southeast Asian city to another. I will never forget the feeling of arriving in Luang Prabang, Laos at night and being greeted by vendors selling freshly made chicken baguette sandwiches, monks walking the streets dressed in bright orange robes, and a guesthouse over-looking one of the city’s most beautiful Buddhist temples. I remember the days spent strolling the perfectly restored alleyways in Lijiang, China and watching Naxi men and women perform traditional dances in the town square. My mind wanders back to the hot afternoons in Saigon, Vietnam where my only plan was to shop in one of the many markets full of men and women eager to bargain over the price of imitation goods. I can almost feel the crisp morning air as I hopped on the back of a motorcycle taxi at 5 am to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Sometimes it’s hard to believe that it was actually me in all of those incredible moments. I must be the luckiest person on earth.

Reading this book about the Mekong River has been a reminder of my love for this part of the world. You won’t find fancy shopping malls or expensive cars in most of these places, but you will find a simple, unexplainable beauty in the land and on the faces of the people. Traveling through these war-torn countries awakened my understanding of the world like never before. I have seen landmine victims struggling to make ends meet, played with children whose growth was stunted due to malnutrition, watched wealthy western men take advantage of young Asian girls forced into prostitution, and seen killing fields where thousands of innocent people died at the hands of brutal leader. However, I have also witnessed singing and dancing, children's laughter, and a deep appreciation for life's simple pleasures. Many of these people have not forgotten their past, and still struggle to survive, but remain hopeful for a better future. Their outlook on life has radically shaped my own. I have never seen so much beauty in the world. I long to return to the simplicity of life along the Mekong.

These photos were taken during a 6-hour boat ride along the Mekong River from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. I traveled through this part of the world in February and March of 2007. It was an experience I hope to never forget.





"Yes, there is a genuine emotional and intellectual rush that comes from travel and discovery...in understanding, in seeing societies change, adapt, create, struggle, survive. And there is a rush of travel itself, a 'wind in the hair' sensation that comes from hefting a backpack and heading into what is truly unknown."
-Edward Gargan.