india revisited.

I ate Indian food today. I swore I'd never do it again after traveling through Rajasthan last year and being sick almost the entire time but so far, so good. The chicken tikka masala, palak paneer, and butter naan tasted delicious but I'm still not convinced I won't have to run to the bathroom in the middle of the night. I guess tomorrow I will officially know whether or not I am once again a fan of Indian cuisine.

The moment I walked into the Indian/Tibetan/Nepalese restaurant this afternoon the smelled of curry hit my nose and memories of the trip came flooding back. The frustration of arriving in New Delhi after 36 hours of travel and with no luggage. The crowded streets full of beggars and tuk-tuks and cows and turbans. The feeling of turning the corner and seeing the Taj Mahal for the first time. Stepping in a fresh cow patty while wearing flip-flops. Taking a boat ride along the Ganges River and witnessing sacred Hindu rituals. Photographing snake charmers, children, and colorful sarees. Eating Indian food, getting sick, and then eating it again the next day. Bathing under a faucet in almost every hotel room. Almost dying in the Muslim quarter thanks to a show-off driver. Mutton curry with the texture of a sponge. Touring old Maharaja palaces. Being forced to pay an excessive amount of money for a bad henna design that stained my hand for 3 weeks. Passing camels on the side of the street. Cheering when Shahrukh Khan finally got the girl in a Bollywood film. Missing the train to Mumbai and seeing it as a sign from God to escape to Singapore. Spending time with the most wonderful travel partners.

So many wonderful memories, and even more that I'd rather forget, all from a simple lunch date with friends. Sometimes it's fun to reminisce about the past which almost always seems better in retrospect. Although I will most likely avoid revisiting India in the future, I am thankful for the experience and the lessons learned. And I am thankful for chicken tikka that doesn't cause food poisoning. Yummm.

udaipur and pushkar.

The next stops during our tour of Rajasthan were in the cities of Udaipur and Pushkar. Here we saw even more camels and cows, strolled through crowded bazaars, had our hands painted with henna, photographed temples and people, and enjoyed lazy evenings eating at western cafés.

Journal entry from Udaipur:

“It is a peaceful morning in Udaipur. I was woken up by the sound of birds chirping near the window while the Islamic call to prayer echoed in the distance. I love the stillness of a new day. The streets are near empty and a light fog hangs over the city. Now I am sitting on our hotel balcony enjoying a cup of chai tea and a few slices of bread. From where I sit I can women washing their colorful saris in the lake as cows lazily stroll along the water’s edge. We arrived here yesterday evening and already this place is my favorite in Rajasthan. The large window in our hotel overlooks the serene lake and an old maharaja palace sits in the distance. It’s possible to navigate this city on foot so last night we walked and walked through narrow streets lined with souvenir shops and restaurants. We ate pizza and curry at a trendy café over-looking the illuminated city. The view from above Udaipur was what I had in mind before coming to India. I feel like I have landed in a place that must have been paradise a few centuries ago.”


an early morning in udaipur.


another view of the lake.


fruit vendor weighing her produce.


camel ride in pushkar.

Next stop: Agra.

crowds, camels, and cows.

While in New Delhi we talked with several other tourists and learned that the easiest way to travel the western state of Rajasthan was by hiring a private driver. So after a little negotiating with a local travel agent we booked a 12-day, all-inclusive tour and our journey through India officially began.

Journal entries from Jaipur:

“Another day in India. I just finished a dinner of chicken curry and naan on a rooftop terrace over-looking Jaipur after an interesting day in the city. It is so hard to find the right words to describe this country. There is so much movement and chaos that I can hardly think straight. This morning we arrived in Rajasthan after a 5-hour ride through the polluted countryside. I feel really far away from home. This part of India is home to camels and cows and gypsies and rickshaws and men that look like ancient nomads. I expected Jaipur to be more relaxing that Delhi, but it also never seems to sleep. It has been a bit hard to feel at peace here because the city is a constant whirlwind of activity, but I know this experience is helping me to more deeply understand the world. I have never seen so much poverty. People here literally have nothing. Every time our car stops women and children crowd around us begging for a few rupees. People are dirty beyong anything I have ever seen before. How can I ever complain about going 2 days without a shower again when some children look like they haven’t bathed in their entire lifetime? It’s a strange feeling to be 25 years old, traveling the world, and witnessing poverty from the outside. I will never understand what it feels like to sleep on the street, to walk on dirt roads without shoes, or go even one day without food. Traveling India has already been much harder and less relaxing than I expected, but I love the things I am learning. If I want to truly make a difference in the world then I need to be out among the people, not watching life happen from the comfort of an air-conditioned car. I know that I always have the option of returning to the luxuries of America, so for now I want to find contentment in the chaos of India.”


i love indian saris. and i love people that smile.


indian women talking on the steps at the monkey temple in jaipur.


snake charmers and their cobra.

“The weather is perfect…blue sky, sunny, and cool. I love this moment. Today is so much better than the ones before and I can finally say that I am falling in love with India. Maybe it’s only natural for change to take time. The first few days were hard for all of us. The congested cities, the pollution, the poverty. But now I am sitting on a bench outside of the royal palace in Rajasthan on this beautiful day. The colors here are so vibrant. Yellow, hot pink, blue, orange, and purple-jeweled saris contrast against the pale walls of the palace. Elephants pass through arched entryways carrying tourists from all parts of the world. A beautiful Indian girl just peered over my shoulder and asked what I was writing. I love the boldness and curiosity of the people. Traveling always presents the most unexpected moments. I am thankful for this experience.”


the royal palace in jaipur.


the orange turban.

Next stop: Udaipur and Pushkar.