goodbye asia.

It’s strange to think that one small variable in life has the power to change the whole course of events. I wonder who I would be today if I hadn’t decided to move to Changsha, China 3 ½ years ago. Would I still be living and working in Arkansas? Would I regret not having been brave enough to follow my dream of seeing the world? Who would I be now if I hadn’t met Grant and started traveling throughout the country every weekend? Would I still have fallen in love with Asia, or would I have returned after just 1 year? What career would I have chosen if I hadn’t explored teaching and discovered so much satisfaction in helping others learn? Would I have pursued an advanced degree or would I still be working in youth ministry? So many events have shaped who I am today and I am thankful for the journey. My time in China and South Korea has been the source of invaluable lessons and has forever shaped perspective of the world. I wouldn’t change a thing.

Right now I am flying high over the Pacific Ocean and am about to begin a new adventure. Transition is never easy. My mind is filled with memories of days spent traveling and living in Asia while trying to remain positive and hopeful about the future that awaits me in America. I know that I am ready for a change, but it doesn’t make the move any easier. So much of my identity is now wrapped up in being a foreigner among a sea of people with a language and customs so different from my own. I have grown accustomed to the stares and unfamiliarity. I have found contentment and happiness in the ability to make friends easily and travel to exotic countries on a whim. I have never felt as free as I have during these last few years. In many ways Asia now feels like home. It’s hard to say goodbye to a place that has provided so much joy, so many friendships, and countless new experiences. However, I know that this part of my life must come to an end if I want to move forward and reach new goals.

As I prepare to close this chapter I couldn’t be more thankful for the memories that will always remain. I will never forget the initial excitement of boarding that first flight to the Far East and not knowing what to expect upon arrival. The friends that I laughed and partied with on the backpackers trail in Southeast Asia. The joy I felt hopping on the back of a motorcycle taxi at 4 o’clock in the morning to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The uncontrollable laughter shared at a belly-dancing show on the beaches of Thailand. The moped rides through the streets of Vietnam, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Eating a breakfast of fresh fruit, banana pancakes, and hot coffee on a porch overlooking wing-tipped Balinese rooftops. Riding buses and trains to new cities throughout China. Exploring the markets of Malaysia and feeling so content to travel alone. Photographing beautiful Indian, Khmer, Chinese, and Korean children. Walking around the sparkling streets of Singapore with my best friend and favorite German. Dodging cows and tuk-tuks throughout Rajasthan. Hiking the Great Wall of China for the first, second, third, fourth, and fifth time. Feeling empowered and confident while teaching university students. Turning the corner and seeing the picturesque Taj Mahal. Strolling through the night market in Luang Prabang followed by a heavenly massage before bedtime. Spring mornings spent reading and writing on the patio of the Coffee Bean in Olympic Park. Dancing until the sun came up on the beaches of Thailand, the Philippines, and clubs of Seoul. The hours spent in front of the Forbidden City after midnight laughing and trying to get the perfect Facebook picture. Shopping in Myeong-dong and Sinsa with my best friend. And these memories are just a few of the hundreds that I am lucky enough to call my own. One person doesn’t deserve so much happiness. I am immensely blessed.

I am now returning to America with the hope of obtaining a master's degree in education and social change so that I might one day help to educate refugees, immigrants, and children in developing nations throughout the world. Perhaps the greatest thing that I have learned in Asia is that as a person who has been given every opportunity to succeed in life it is my responsibility to give back. And so a new journey begins.

“Change is the essence of life. Be willing to surrender what you are for what you could become.” -Unknown

india revisited.

I ate Indian food today. I swore I'd never do it again after traveling through Rajasthan last year and being sick almost the entire time but so far, so good. The chicken tikka masala, palak paneer, and butter naan tasted delicious but I'm still not convinced I won't have to run to the bathroom in the middle of the night. I guess tomorrow I will officially know whether or not I am once again a fan of Indian cuisine.

The moment I walked into the Indian/Tibetan/Nepalese restaurant this afternoon the smelled of curry hit my nose and memories of the trip came flooding back. The frustration of arriving in New Delhi after 36 hours of travel and with no luggage. The crowded streets full of beggars and tuk-tuks and cows and turbans. The feeling of turning the corner and seeing the Taj Mahal for the first time. Stepping in a fresh cow patty while wearing flip-flops. Taking a boat ride along the Ganges River and witnessing sacred Hindu rituals. Photographing snake charmers, children, and colorful sarees. Eating Indian food, getting sick, and then eating it again the next day. Bathing under a faucet in almost every hotel room. Almost dying in the Muslim quarter thanks to a show-off driver. Mutton curry with the texture of a sponge. Touring old Maharaja palaces. Being forced to pay an excessive amount of money for a bad henna design that stained my hand for 3 weeks. Passing camels on the side of the street. Cheering when Shahrukh Khan finally got the girl in a Bollywood film. Missing the train to Mumbai and seeing it as a sign from God to escape to Singapore. Spending time with the most wonderful travel partners.

So many wonderful memories, and even more that I'd rather forget, all from a simple lunch date with friends. Sometimes it's fun to reminisce about the past which almost always seems better in retrospect. Although I will most likely avoid revisiting India in the future, I am thankful for the experience and the lessons learned. And I am thankful for chicken tikka that doesn't cause food poisoning. Yummm.

caramel latte conversations.

Coffee almost always taste better when accompanied by a good book, a moleskin journal, and a best friend.

james 2:14-26

"What good is it, my brothers, if a man claims to have faith but has no deeds? Can such faith save him? Suppose a brother or sister is without clothes and daily food. If one of you says to him, 'Go, I wish you well; keep warm and well fed,' but does nothing about his physical needs what good is it? In the same way, faith by itself, if it is not accompanied by action, is dead."



I first posted this video almost two years ago and every time I watch it am reminded of the Jesus' command for us to love one another. Throughout the last two weeks I have seen painful images of a nation destroyed. Children left orphaned. Family's desperate to find their loved ones. Bodies broken under collapsed buildings. Haiti, the poorest nation in the western hemisphere, has been shaken and destroyed. At times it seems like there is no justice in the world. Why are those already living in such extreme poverty forced to endure more heartache? Where is God is the midst of disaster and suffering? Why are some blessed with money and food and education while so many struggle without? My heart aches to find an answer.

I will not forget the people of Haiti who now live in makeshift tents and wake up each day to a painful reality. I will not forget the malnourished children that I talked and laughed with in Cambodia. I will not forget the crippled who were cast aside as beggars on the streets of China. I will not forget the victims of war with missing limbs that I walked past in Vietnam. I know without a doubt that I have been called to make a difference. I truly want to be the hands and feet of Christ in a broken world.

"Now that I have seen, I am responsible. Faith without deeds is dead."

holiday in hong kong.

Travel. Travel. Travel. Will it ever get old? Last week I boarded a plane bound for Hong Kong and set off to explore yet another city in the world. Although I have lived in China for over 1 1/2 years in total, I never made it to Hong Kong while I was on the mainland and have always been eager to check it out. It was so fun to walk down busy streets full of diverse people, roam through crowded shopping districts, eat delicious Cantonese food, spend time with wonderful friends, see the illuminated skyline at night, and just hang out in one of the most international and exciting cities in the world. I think I can now leave Asia without regrets of places left unseen.

A few photos from the trip:


drinking bubble tea with rob and eva. love it!


crowded streets.


cantonese women on a bicycle built for two.


lan kwai fong. the place to party in hong kong!


senada square in macau.


eating dimsum!


so many high end stores.


the skyline from on top of the peak!

"The plane a symbol of worldliness, carrying within itself a trace of all the lands it has crossed. Its eternal mobility offering an imaginative counterweight to feelings of stagnation and confinement." - Alain de Botton (The Art of Travel)

home on the other side.

A new job and another new apartment. This is where I now eat, sleep, read, watch TV, send emails, etc. My own little 9' x 10' home on the other side of the world.

Views from every angle:







"I long, as every human being does, to be at home wherever I find myself."
-Maya Angelou

island paradise.

It was so nice to get away this past weekend and to leave the chaos of the city. As much as I love living in places like Beijing or Seoul where there is constant movement and people, it's good to experience the quieter side of life every once in awhile. So this weekend Eva and I went to her beautiful hometown, Wando. We read and talked and laid in the sun and listened to music and ate tons of delicious food (so much in fact that I've declared a fruit fast for myself during the remainder of the week) and drove all over the islands. I couldn't have asked for a more relaxing or fun two days. I am thankful for these beautiful escapes into paradise with a wonderful friend.


enjoying a sunny afternoon by the ocean.


playing in the sand.


the perfect place to read and write.


another view of the islands.


sunset over the city.


driving with the windows rolled down and sufjan on the ipod. perfection.

can't steal happiness.

Happiness is the consequence of personal effort. You fight for it, strive for it, insist upon it, and sometimes even travel the world looking for it. You have to participate relentlessly in the manifestations of your own blessings, and once you have achieved happiness you must never become lax about maintaining it. You must make a mighty effort to keep swimming upward into that happiness forever, to stay afloat on top of it. If you don't, you will leak away your innate contentment. It's easy though to pray when you're in distress but continuing to pray even when your in crisis has passed is like a sealing process, helping your soul hold tight to its good attainments.

- Elizabeth Gilbert (Eat. Pray. Love.)

NBA in seoul.

Today I watched former NBA players, coached by Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, lose miserably to a Korean team. While it hurts my heart to know that any other country has the ability to beat America basketball players (no matter how old and out of shape they may be), it was a good afternoon. I love my friends, free tickets to sporting events, rowdy fans, and unexpected fun days in the city. And now I am even more excited about returning to Texas and watching my Dallas Mavericks in action.


there were actually more people at the game than appear to be in the picture. i guess most of the crowd was sitting on the other side of the court.

sunset in the park.

Last night I took a long walk through Olympic Park at sunset and just enjoyed the hot summer air as I thought about my return to the city. This has always been my favorite place in Seoul, and it still doesn't disappoint. I love coming to this park after a long day of work, running through the tree-lined paths, or just soaking up the vibrant surroundings on the patio at my favorite Coffee Bean cafe. I am happy to be in Korea again, but so much has changed... or maybe it's me. It's a strange feeling to to leave one job in Asia only to return to another country that still isn't your own. I am learning that life is full of unexpected journeys and I am anxious to see where it will take me next!

oh beijing.

The last 6 months of life have been wonderful as I moved to Beijing, settled into an apartment in the city, worked at China University of Political Science and Law, made new friends, learned more about myself, and returned to Korea. Sadly, I haven't been able to update my blog regularly because of government Internet restrictions, but all of of that has changed now that I am in Seoul. Anyway... about China. It's hard to share an entire experience in only a few short sentences, so I'll just say that it was a great adventure. I will miss my apartment building filled with old people, riding to the subway station in a little green tuk-tuk, shopping at fake markets, teaching brilliant law students, watching illegal DVDs, dancing in Sanilitun, and spending time with people I care about. I am thankful for the journey.

A few photos from Beijing:


me and g-ragland's living room.


my bedroom.


my sister at tiananmen square.


the great wall of china at simatai.


camping trip on the great wall!


eating german food with my favorite german.


the 2008 olympic bird nest.

I think I will always love China.

paradise found.

There aren’t enough adjectives to adequately describe the beauty of Boracay Island. This laid-back stretch of beach felt like a piece of heaven, especially in comparison to the rest of our travels. We came with the intention of staying only 7 days and then traveling to other islands throughout the Philippines, but soon found it impossible to leave. So for the next 2 weeks we spent nearly every afternoon laying on white sand beaches, drinking mango smoothies in the sun, exploring the island on the back of a moped, sailing and snorkeling, and meeting other travelers from around the world. My time in the Philippines was more fun than I ever anticipated and I am so thankful to have seen this part of the world.


sunset. my favorite time of the day.


grant, nicole and i enjoying an italian dinner on the beach.


boracay's white sand beach.

Journal entry from Boracay:
“I HAVE LANDED IN PARADISE.” Boracay Island must be one of the most beautiful places on earth. After traveling through India for a few weeks it became hard to imagine that a place so laid-back and beautiful actually does exist. This morning I woke up in our quiet little hotel room surrounded by flowers and trees and went for a long walk along the beach. I had every intention of listening to music while soaking up the morning sun, but the sound of the ocean crashing along the shore was too beautiful to drown out. I love it here. This island really is one of the most serene and picturesque places I have ever traveled. Right now I am sitting at a beach side café drinking an iced latte and watching tourist pass by. From where I sit I can see palm trees stretching into the bright blue sky and clear turquoise water in the near distance. My only plan for the afternoon is to tan by the beach and drink a smoothie, and tonight I hope to go out and meet some other travelers. The living is easy. Life is good. I wish my family and friends could see this paradise with their own eyes because photos will never do it justice.


main street.


one of many amazing sand castles built along the water's edge.


this is what $22 a night will get you in the philippines.


another photo of the beautiful beach.


the view from my favorite massage parlor. $6 an hour for a full-body massage.


nicole and grant parasailing! i was too scared to go, so i became the official picture taker.

Next stop: Beijing, China...my new home!

three days in manila.

When we started traveling in January I never imagined that we would end up in the Philippines. But after enduring the food poisoning and filth of India, and then escaping through Southeast Asia, it seemed like the only logical place to spend the remainder of our vacation. It was definitely a good decision. I have been to beaches around the world but have never found islands as beautiful as those in the Philippines.

After spending 3 days in sunny Singapore we caught a flight to Manila and spent a few days touring Intramuros and the area along the bay, indulging in $7 massages, window shopping in some of the city’s most fashionable malls, and preparing for our next destination. Manila was an interesting place to explore but all of us were more than ready to relax on Boracay Island’s white sand beaches. So a few days later we boarded a 60-passenger airplane (one of the scariest rides of my life) and landed in paradise.

Photos from Manila:


intramuros. the old, walled section of the city.


view of manila bay.


the smallest plane i never hope to ride again. nicole actually screamed when the plane hit the ground upon landing.

Next stop: Boracay Island.

singapore!

It took a 45-hour train ride, 2 nights in Bangalore, and an overnight flight to Southeast Asia to escape India, but we have arrived in Singapore!

The sky is blue. The sun is shinning. Flowers and trees line the sidewalks. Arriving in Singapore was such a shock after having spent the last 3 weeks in India. There are no beggars on the streets, no dirty cows, no urine-stained sidewalks, no women dressed in sarees, and no pollution hovering over the city. Everything here is so clean and beautiful. I spent most of the afternoon today walking along Orchard Street past professional looking people and high-end retail stores such as Versace, Gucci, and Chanel. It's hard to believe that such drastically different countries even exist on the same planet. I am thankful to have traveled through parts of India and never want to forget the things I have seen, but I'm so happy to now be in Singapore. I love hearing the many languages spoken as I pass people on the subway. I love feeling the light breeze that cools the air. I love the sunshine. It's hard to really wrap my mind around my location in the world now. A few years ago I never imagined that I would have traveled so much of Asia or become so content on this side of the world. I am thankful for where life has taken me.

A few photos from Singapore:

sleepy sam's hostel near arab street where we stayed for 3 nights.


the mosque just meters away from our hostel.


chinatown!


the famous raffles hotel where we splurged for a $20 cocktail.


downtown singapore at sunset.

Next stop: The Philippines.

the escape.

After moving from one city to another and always hoping for something better in the next, we finally gave up on India. I thought I was prepared for the cows and poverty and massive amounts of people after having lived in China and traveled through much of Southeast Asia, but nothing compares. We are tired of fighting against India and are ready for a more relaxing vacation. Perhaps I will return one day to backpack the south, but now it's on to Singapore! I couldn't be more excited.

death and reincarnation in varanasi.

I don't think that anything could have adequately prepared me for Varanasi. Before arriving in the city I knew a little bit about the Hindu belief in the cleansing power of the Ganges River, but I never gave serious thought to the rituals performed there. During our second afternoon in the city we went for a long stroll along the river hoping to gain a greater understanding of the religion. It is believed that the Ganges River has the ability to wipe away sin and because of this we saw many men, women, and children bathing in the dark, filthy water. It is also believed that any Hindu that dies in Varanasi will escape the cycle of reincarnation. Therefore, many people come to the city to die. All along the river bank we saw men carrying the dead on bamboo stretchers into the sacred Ganges to wash them of their sins before being cremated on nearby fires. I have never seen so much death. It was an interesting and hard experience, to say the least. I will never forget the images of that day.

Journal entry from Varanasi:

“I am floating along the Ganges River now. We just passed a large cremation sight where hundreds of men are busily gathering wood to burn those who have recently died in Varanasi. All of the corpses are carefully wrapped in orange silk, placed on a bamboo stretcher, and carried to the river’s edge to be splashed with water, and therefore cleansed of all sin, before being cremated. Death is everywhere. In a matter of hours I have seen dozens of dead bodies waiting to be burned. Smoke fills the air as bodies leave this world and escape reincarnation, as the Hindus believe. A few minutes ago we stopped in front of a deceased man awaiting his cremation. We witnessed his young daughter turn the corner and see her father for the last time. First she screamed and then a steady wailing filled the air. I felt like I was invading on a private and sacred moment- I had to turn my head away. Here in Varanasi death is a part of everyday life. People bathe in the Ganges River to rid themselves of sin and hope to die here to escape the cycle of reincarnation. It seems like such a silly ritual to me, but we all have our beliefs. My heart is aching now for the girl who lost her father today. I can’t imagine the sense of fear and sadness that she must feel now. I don’t ever want to become so numb to the pain and suffering of others that I see their hurt and feel nothing. Death is everywhere in Varanasi.”


boat ride down the ganges river.


bathing in the holy water.


boats along the river.


one of the cremation sights at the ganges river.

Next stop: Bangalore.

i no longer like india.

The moment it all changed.

Journal entry following a 15-hour train ride in India:

"Last night I felt so gross that I actually blew my nose into a bed sheet before covering up with it to sleep. My head is congested and achy, my nose wont stop running, and my stomach is turning at the thought of eating any more curry. It’s official- I no longer like India. We took a 2nd class sleeper from Agra to Varanasi and arrived the following afternoon completely tired and dirty. I thought I could handle nearly anything after taking so many 4th class train rides in China, but nothing prepared me for India. The train station in Agra was dark and crowded. The platforms were covered in a thick layer of dirt and garbage. Men wearing white turbans pushed and shoved to be the first on the train when it arrived while guards carrying rifles patrolled the area. And it only got worse once on board. Because we are traveling with so much luggage it was a struggle to find a place for everything. People were moving up and down the train car as we shoved our 50 pound bags under the seats. I’m not sure I can ever endure another train ride in India after this terrible experience. I have tried so hard to remain positive during the last week but this country is slowly killing me. The pollution is making it nearly impossible to breathe and it feels like I now have dirt permanently embedded on the bottoms of my feet. This really isn’t what I had in mind when coming to India. I wish that I could write home and share wonderful stories about the country but right now I feel nothing…except the need to escape.”

afternoon at the taj mahal.

I almost had to catch my breath the moment I turned the corner and saw the Taj Mahal for the first time. As soon as we entered the grounds everything seemed calmer as no one hassled us to buy postcards or begged for rupees. Grant, Nicole, and I spent nearly 2 hours taking pictures in front of the Taj, sitting on a park bench under the afternoon sun, and exploring the surrounding area. Now I understand why so many people travel halfway around the world to see this beautiful monument. It was an incredible experience that I will remember forever.


approaching the taj mahal.


my favorite place in india.


me and grant. our favorite pose.