death and reincarnation in varanasi.

I don't think that anything could have adequately prepared me for Varanasi. Before arriving in the city I knew a little bit about the Hindu belief in the cleansing power of the Ganges River, but I never gave serious thought to the rituals performed there. During our second afternoon in the city we went for a long stroll along the river hoping to gain a greater understanding of the religion. It is believed that the Ganges River has the ability to wipe away sin and because of this we saw many men, women, and children bathing in the dark, filthy water. It is also believed that any Hindu that dies in Varanasi will escape the cycle of reincarnation. Therefore, many people come to the city to die. All along the river bank we saw men carrying the dead on bamboo stretchers into the sacred Ganges to wash them of their sins before being cremated on nearby fires. I have never seen so much death. It was an interesting and hard experience, to say the least. I will never forget the images of that day.

Journal entry from Varanasi:

“I am floating along the Ganges River now. We just passed a large cremation sight where hundreds of men are busily gathering wood to burn those who have recently died in Varanasi. All of the corpses are carefully wrapped in orange silk, placed on a bamboo stretcher, and carried to the river’s edge to be splashed with water, and therefore cleansed of all sin, before being cremated. Death is everywhere. In a matter of hours I have seen dozens of dead bodies waiting to be burned. Smoke fills the air as bodies leave this world and escape reincarnation, as the Hindus believe. A few minutes ago we stopped in front of a deceased man awaiting his cremation. We witnessed his young daughter turn the corner and see her father for the last time. First she screamed and then a steady wailing filled the air. I felt like I was invading on a private and sacred moment- I had to turn my head away. Here in Varanasi death is a part of everyday life. People bathe in the Ganges River to rid themselves of sin and hope to die here to escape the cycle of reincarnation. It seems like such a silly ritual to me, but we all have our beliefs. My heart is aching now for the girl who lost her father today. I can’t imagine the sense of fear and sadness that she must feel now. I don’t ever want to become so numb to the pain and suffering of others that I see their hurt and feel nothing. Death is everywhere in Varanasi.”


boat ride down the ganges river.


bathing in the holy water.


boats along the river.


one of the cremation sights at the ganges river.

Next stop: Bangalore.