singapore!

It took a 45-hour train ride, 2 nights in Bangalore, and an overnight flight to Southeast Asia to escape India, but we have arrived in Singapore!

The sky is blue. The sun is shinning. Flowers and trees line the sidewalks. Arriving in Singapore was such a shock after having spent the last 3 weeks in India. There are no beggars on the streets, no dirty cows, no urine-stained sidewalks, no women dressed in sarees, and no pollution hovering over the city. Everything here is so clean and beautiful. I spent most of the afternoon today walking along Orchard Street past professional looking people and high-end retail stores such as Versace, Gucci, and Chanel. It's hard to believe that such drastically different countries even exist on the same planet. I am thankful to have traveled through parts of India and never want to forget the things I have seen, but I'm so happy to now be in Singapore. I love hearing the many languages spoken as I pass people on the subway. I love feeling the light breeze that cools the air. I love the sunshine. It's hard to really wrap my mind around my location in the world now. A few years ago I never imagined that I would have traveled so much of Asia or become so content on this side of the world. I am thankful for where life has taken me.

A few photos from Singapore:

sleepy sam's hostel near arab street where we stayed for 3 nights.


the mosque just meters away from our hostel.


chinatown!


the famous raffles hotel where we splurged for a $20 cocktail.


downtown singapore at sunset.

Next stop: The Philippines.

the escape.

After moving from one city to another and always hoping for something better in the next, we finally gave up on India. I thought I was prepared for the cows and poverty and massive amounts of people after having lived in China and traveled through much of Southeast Asia, but nothing compares. We are tired of fighting against India and are ready for a more relaxing vacation. Perhaps I will return one day to backpack the south, but now it's on to Singapore! I couldn't be more excited.

death and reincarnation in varanasi.

I don't think that anything could have adequately prepared me for Varanasi. Before arriving in the city I knew a little bit about the Hindu belief in the cleansing power of the Ganges River, but I never gave serious thought to the rituals performed there. During our second afternoon in the city we went for a long stroll along the river hoping to gain a greater understanding of the religion. It is believed that the Ganges River has the ability to wipe away sin and because of this we saw many men, women, and children bathing in the dark, filthy water. It is also believed that any Hindu that dies in Varanasi will escape the cycle of reincarnation. Therefore, many people come to the city to die. All along the river bank we saw men carrying the dead on bamboo stretchers into the sacred Ganges to wash them of their sins before being cremated on nearby fires. I have never seen so much death. It was an interesting and hard experience, to say the least. I will never forget the images of that day.

Journal entry from Varanasi:

“I am floating along the Ganges River now. We just passed a large cremation sight where hundreds of men are busily gathering wood to burn those who have recently died in Varanasi. All of the corpses are carefully wrapped in orange silk, placed on a bamboo stretcher, and carried to the river’s edge to be splashed with water, and therefore cleansed of all sin, before being cremated. Death is everywhere. In a matter of hours I have seen dozens of dead bodies waiting to be burned. Smoke fills the air as bodies leave this world and escape reincarnation, as the Hindus believe. A few minutes ago we stopped in front of a deceased man awaiting his cremation. We witnessed his young daughter turn the corner and see her father for the last time. First she screamed and then a steady wailing filled the air. I felt like I was invading on a private and sacred moment- I had to turn my head away. Here in Varanasi death is a part of everyday life. People bathe in the Ganges River to rid themselves of sin and hope to die here to escape the cycle of reincarnation. It seems like such a silly ritual to me, but we all have our beliefs. My heart is aching now for the girl who lost her father today. I can’t imagine the sense of fear and sadness that she must feel now. I don’t ever want to become so numb to the pain and suffering of others that I see their hurt and feel nothing. Death is everywhere in Varanasi.”


boat ride down the ganges river.


bathing in the holy water.


boats along the river.


one of the cremation sights at the ganges river.

Next stop: Bangalore.

i no longer like india.

The moment it all changed.

Journal entry following a 15-hour train ride in India:

"Last night I felt so gross that I actually blew my nose into a bed sheet before covering up with it to sleep. My head is congested and achy, my nose wont stop running, and my stomach is turning at the thought of eating any more curry. It’s official- I no longer like India. We took a 2nd class sleeper from Agra to Varanasi and arrived the following afternoon completely tired and dirty. I thought I could handle nearly anything after taking so many 4th class train rides in China, but nothing prepared me for India. The train station in Agra was dark and crowded. The platforms were covered in a thick layer of dirt and garbage. Men wearing white turbans pushed and shoved to be the first on the train when it arrived while guards carrying rifles patrolled the area. And it only got worse once on board. Because we are traveling with so much luggage it was a struggle to find a place for everything. People were moving up and down the train car as we shoved our 50 pound bags under the seats. I’m not sure I can ever endure another train ride in India after this terrible experience. I have tried so hard to remain positive during the last week but this country is slowly killing me. The pollution is making it nearly impossible to breathe and it feels like I now have dirt permanently embedded on the bottoms of my feet. This really isn’t what I had in mind when coming to India. I wish that I could write home and share wonderful stories about the country but right now I feel nothing…except the need to escape.”

afternoon at the taj mahal.

I almost had to catch my breath the moment I turned the corner and saw the Taj Mahal for the first time. As soon as we entered the grounds everything seemed calmer as no one hassled us to buy postcards or begged for rupees. Grant, Nicole, and I spent nearly 2 hours taking pictures in front of the Taj, sitting on a park bench under the afternoon sun, and exploring the surrounding area. Now I understand why so many people travel halfway around the world to see this beautiful monument. It was an incredible experience that I will remember forever.


approaching the taj mahal.


my favorite place in india.


me and grant. our favorite pose.

udaipur and pushkar.

The next stops during our tour of Rajasthan were in the cities of Udaipur and Pushkar. Here we saw even more camels and cows, strolled through crowded bazaars, had our hands painted with henna, photographed temples and people, and enjoyed lazy evenings eating at western cafés.

Journal entry from Udaipur:

“It is a peaceful morning in Udaipur. I was woken up by the sound of birds chirping near the window while the Islamic call to prayer echoed in the distance. I love the stillness of a new day. The streets are near empty and a light fog hangs over the city. Now I am sitting on our hotel balcony enjoying a cup of chai tea and a few slices of bread. From where I sit I can women washing their colorful saris in the lake as cows lazily stroll along the water’s edge. We arrived here yesterday evening and already this place is my favorite in Rajasthan. The large window in our hotel overlooks the serene lake and an old maharaja palace sits in the distance. It’s possible to navigate this city on foot so last night we walked and walked through narrow streets lined with souvenir shops and restaurants. We ate pizza and curry at a trendy café over-looking the illuminated city. The view from above Udaipur was what I had in mind before coming to India. I feel like I have landed in a place that must have been paradise a few centuries ago.”


an early morning in udaipur.


another view of the lake.


fruit vendor weighing her produce.


camel ride in pushkar.

Next stop: Agra.

crowds, camels, and cows.

While in New Delhi we talked with several other tourists and learned that the easiest way to travel the western state of Rajasthan was by hiring a private driver. So after a little negotiating with a local travel agent we booked a 12-day, all-inclusive tour and our journey through India officially began.

Journal entries from Jaipur:

“Another day in India. I just finished a dinner of chicken curry and naan on a rooftop terrace over-looking Jaipur after an interesting day in the city. It is so hard to find the right words to describe this country. There is so much movement and chaos that I can hardly think straight. This morning we arrived in Rajasthan after a 5-hour ride through the polluted countryside. I feel really far away from home. This part of India is home to camels and cows and gypsies and rickshaws and men that look like ancient nomads. I expected Jaipur to be more relaxing that Delhi, but it also never seems to sleep. It has been a bit hard to feel at peace here because the city is a constant whirlwind of activity, but I know this experience is helping me to more deeply understand the world. I have never seen so much poverty. People here literally have nothing. Every time our car stops women and children crowd around us begging for a few rupees. People are dirty beyong anything I have ever seen before. How can I ever complain about going 2 days without a shower again when some children look like they haven’t bathed in their entire lifetime? It’s a strange feeling to be 25 years old, traveling the world, and witnessing poverty from the outside. I will never understand what it feels like to sleep on the street, to walk on dirt roads without shoes, or go even one day without food. Traveling India has already been much harder and less relaxing than I expected, but I love the things I am learning. If I want to truly make a difference in the world then I need to be out among the people, not watching life happen from the comfort of an air-conditioned car. I know that I always have the option of returning to the luxuries of America, so for now I want to find contentment in the chaos of India.”


i love indian saris. and i love people that smile.


indian women talking on the steps at the monkey temple in jaipur.


snake charmers and their cobra.

“The weather is perfect…blue sky, sunny, and cool. I love this moment. Today is so much better than the ones before and I can finally say that I am falling in love with India. Maybe it’s only natural for change to take time. The first few days were hard for all of us. The congested cities, the pollution, the poverty. But now I am sitting on a bench outside of the royal palace in Rajasthan on this beautiful day. The colors here are so vibrant. Yellow, hot pink, blue, orange, and purple-jeweled saris contrast against the pale walls of the palace. Elephants pass through arched entryways carrying tourists from all parts of the world. A beautiful Indian girl just peered over my shoulder and asked what I was writing. I love the boldness and curiosity of the people. Traveling always presents the most unexpected moments. I am thankful for this experience.”


the royal palace in jaipur.


the orange turban.

Next stop: Udaipur and Pushkar.

arrival in new delhi.

I did a bit of reading about India before the trip and learned from numerous sources that it is often known for being a land of contradictions. Supposedly in India you find the best and worst of everything. Therefore, I shouldn’t have been surprised when our flight was delayed by almost an entire day, we made two additional stopovers in both Dubai and Amsterdam, and arrived in New Delhi after 48 hours of continuous travel without luggage. However, the best of India came shortly after when I stepped out of the airport and saw the country for the first time. I wasn’t prepared to see men walking the streets with turbans piled onto their heads, women wrapped in brightly colored saris, cows freely roaming the streets, etc. Everything looked so mysterious and exotic. The first few moments in a new country are always some of the best, in my opinion.

Shortly after arriving at our hostel Grant and I met our German friend, Nicole, and we found a somewhat quiet place to catch up over a cup of chai tea. It was so good to be reunited and traveling together again after 2 years apart. Our first night in India was spent adjusting to the noise and pollution of the city, trying authentic Indian food for the first time, and resting. All of us were exhausted from having traveled halfway around the world. The next morning we woke up fairly early and set out to explore New Delhi. We walked up and down busy streets home to barefoot beggars and curry restaurants. We dodged cows and pushy vendors and tuk-tuks that were driving on the “wrong” side of the road. And during this first day I became convinced that no experience in life could have adequately prepared me for India. If I had to sum up the entire country into one word it would be this: Chaos.

It only took us one full day in New Delhi to be sure that we didn’t want to stay any longer. After only 24 hours my lungs were working overtime and my head ached from the noise and pollution. So the following morning we packed our bags, hired a driver, and set of to explore the western state of Rajasthan where we hoped to find a bit more peace and quiet.

A few photos from the city:

almost every man in northern india is dressed this way.


indian traffic.


travelers between delhi and rajasthan.


typical street vendor in delhi.

Next stop: Jaipur.

india bound.

The iconic photo that will be taken in front of monuments throughout the world.

Tomorrow morning I will wake up early, pack last-minute items into my suitcase, drive to the airport, and board a plane bound for New Delhi. It's hard to believe that the moment has arrived. During the next 7 weeks I will be backpacking India, Singapore, and Maldives before beginning a new teaching job in Beijing. I am so excited about exploring chaotic cities, touring ancient ruins, photographing exotic people and landscapes, and meeting other travelers on the backpacker's trail. My two close friends, Grant and Nicole, will be joining me. Grant and I first met in college but became good friends almost three years ago while we were both living in China. We then met Nicole (aka. our favorite German hippie!) during a backpacking trip through Southeast Asia. I know it is going to be an experience of a lifetime for all of us and I am so excited about sharing the journey with good friends.

Check back regularly as I will be updating my blog during the trip!

a new year.

It seems so surreal that another year has already begun and now 2008 remains nothing more than a memory of the past. I haven’t given the change much thought, probably because my New Year's Eve was relatively uneventful and nothing out of the ordinary, but the other day I was sitting in the living room watching the news and thought about all the stories that will flash across the screen in the next year. It’s crazy how quickly life changes and current events become nothing more that a part of history. I don’t have any idea what's in store for the next 365 days, but I know I will do everything possible to find joy, contentment, love, and adventure. I will not settle for anything less.

A friend of mine sent me an email the other day recapping this last year of his life, and it caused me to reflect on the moments I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy. The last 12 months have been a whirlwind of experiences and sometimes I still can’t believe it was me in all of the moments that fill my head. I remember dancing the night away at a club in Seoul on December 31, 2007 and looking around in amazement at the dozens of nations represented in a single room. I remember my first snowboarding trip in the mountains of Korea and spending hours in a heated pool taking underwater pictures with friends outside of our condo. I remember the numerous mornings I woke up early and rode my bike to Olympic Park where I would then sit and write and read for a couple of hours before work. I remember long runs on the treadmill at the gym overlooking the busy streets below. I remember visiting Eva's hometown, meeting her family, and feeling so grateful to have found true friendship on the other side of the world. I remember boarding a plane to Malaysia all alone and wondering if I was capable of traveling to new countries on my own. I remember dinners with friends, teaching young Korean children, shopping in the city, and riding a taxi home at night while looking out over the illuminated Seoul skyline. I feel like I have learned so much about myself during this last year. I haven’t always made good decisions, and haven’t always followed my heart, but I have lived. I have experienced incredible moments of joy that outweigh everything negative. Life changes so quickly. In one year I went from dancing the night away in an Asian club on New Year’s Eve, to a quiet evening at home in the suburbs. In many ways the change has been hard but I know it’s the only way we grow. I am thankful for the journey that life has taken me on and am even more thankful that it brought me home to my family once again.

This last year has been one of the best, and I have nothing but hope for a memorable 2009.